As many of you will have read in previous posts, Petit Meslier is one of the varieties I will be planting this year and I am extremely grateful for the generosity of the only known grower of this variety in Australia, James Irvine. He recently sent me a bottle of his 2013 Meslier base wine which I have now finally had the opportunity to give some attention to, so I thought I should share my tasting note with you while it is still fresh in my mind.
This variety is a cross between Savagnin and Gouais Blanc. The latter has been the mother for almost as many better known varieties as it has synonyms, (and believe me, there are plenty,) including Chardonnay and Riesling, so it is hard to pinpoint any particular inherited attributes. Perhaps the more citrusy elements may come from this side, and on the nose at least, the wine shows some similarities with Riesling, with aromas that include wild flower and orange blossom. The faint but noticeable spice and rose petal notes are more easily traced to it’s Savagnin parentage, (one of the Traminer family,) as might be the marked yellow colouration.
Unusually for a young base wine, (which can often strip the lining from your throat on the way down,) the palate has some sappy, almost fatty textures on entry, which soon give way to searing green apple and lime flavours. I am genuinely impressed with this wine and it will be intriguing to see if Tasmania produces the same combination of acidity, texture and primary aromatics. Once again, a thousand thanks Jim.
OK! A big thank you for making my last post, A dog, a compass and a measuring wheel… my most viewed post so far. However, I am under no delusions as to why…so here is another picture of Barney, my not-so-faithful English setter. Not sure which one of us the girl at the back is most jealous of.
…two of which at least were useful as we set off to make a survey of the block so that an order for the trellis posts can be placed next week. This represents the biggest investment since buying the land and I have thought long and hard over the right way to go, not only in terms of the training choices, height, end assemblies etc (of which their will be much more in future posts,) but about what materials I would use.
The standard choice is CCA (copper, chromium, arsenic,) treated pine. It lasts well, although it tends to brittleness, and is relatively inexpensive. While there have been few issues with chemical leaching, I have encountered the occasional whisper that, in areas of intensive planting, the arsenic residues in the soils are building to levels that might become a concern in the future.
As everything involved in building a vineyard must be done with an eye to the future, I have settled on a new product from the wonderful Ashley Davidson at Woodshield comprising an untreated machined pine post sheathed in a recycled 6mm plastic outer. These posts have higher breaking strains than treated pine and are suitable for organic viticulture. While admittedly there are higher initial costs, hopefully they will be offset by long-term savings and minimal environmental impact. And I feel that I am doing the right thing. WoodShield brochure
Some of you might raise an eyebrow at the subject of this post, but after all, the idea is to provide a real-time diary of the highs and lows of establishing a small vineyard and winery. It is in no way intended as a whinge or criticism; just an observation on one of the many obstacles along the way.
In Australia, as in many other places, an aging population compounded by earlier retirement has led to the likely prospect of governments being unable to support pension payments for the elderly before too much longer. Therefore, and very sensibly, increasing onus is being placed on individuals to manage their own financial security in their declining years, including federal encouragement for responsibly self-managed superannuation funds. All well and good.
So being a responsibly minded citizen (allegedly) with an eye to the future, the land for this project was purchased, at no inconsiderable expense, with the assistance of my super fund. As many businesses do, I then required some extra finance in order to responsibly grow my investment, not forgetting that we live and work in a lending based economy. Unfortunately, none of the lending institutions feel they can supply the very modest level of gearing needed, primarily because, as the main asset is protected under federal superannuation laws, the banks cannot include the value in their risk assessment.
While logical, I feel that there is a chasm between the stated intent of government and the ability of private industry to deliver. I am sure that many of you have had similar experiences, but for those that have better access to government than I, perhaps you might like to point out the apparent paradox and suggest the need for some much needed attention to the matter. One solution that springs to mind might be a loan insurance scheme underwritten by treasury which, to my mind at least, would appear to satisfy the needs of all parties concerned.
All this aside, everything else is continuing smoothly. The cuttings are callousing nicely and I am eagerly waiting for the arrival of the Petit Meslier cuttings. This week’s duty is to accurately measure out the proposed blocks and to place an order for some very special trellis posts. More news very soon.
Although this journey is still very much in the early stage, it appears the news is spreading far and wide, with readers not only from around Australia, but also in New Zealand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia, Spain, Italy, Sweden, UK, Ireland, Canada, USA and Chile. Spread the word everyone and let’s see if we can cover the globe.
Thanks must go to the Tasmanian Government for supporting the Digital Ready program, designed to assist small Tasmanian businesses grow their online presence. Special thanks though for all the help from Matt Mercier of Grafik Design, pictured here when we visited the future vineyard together, learning that “cool climate viticulture” means just what it says!
One of the things I am most grateful for is the plentiful supply of water in our two dams. There however it had to stay until now when we finally got the power hooked up to the pump house. The first things to benefit will be the olives, saved from the original plantation and now situated around the front dam. Next will be the (soon to be) majestic row of populars destined for the southern boundary of the vineyard.